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Erkki

Damn it, but computers have become really complicated

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7 to 10 is going to be a pretty big jump. I doubt you'll like everything right away.q

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I'm not sure how much support Windows 10 has for Mac drivers. I recall hearing about someone having problems, but I can't figure out where I heard it.

 

The primary problem you'll have games-wise is that most sorts of fancy copy protection are not able to run in Win10 as Microsoft has tightened up security and doesn't allow third parties to install software that access the OS at such a low level. Safedisk in particular is broken, but any other DRM could be victim.

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i did mine on thursday and my windows 8 "classic shell" install migrated over perfectly! the only noticeable change is the recycle bin icon & my command prompt text is too small

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starting from August you'll only be able to perform a free upgrade to Windows 10 anniversary edition.

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starting from August you'll only be able to perform a free upgrade to Windows 10 anniversary edition.

I thought free upgrades were over?

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I'm building a new workstation/game-PC. My previous systems were all Dell XPS systems, which back in the day had ok configurations for ok money. But these days the XPS desktops are really outdated. And AlienWare is seriously overpriced, getting a similar setup is about 50% more expensive.

 

So right now I have this config:

  • CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K / 3.5 GHz
  • Motherboard: ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING
  • GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 GAMING X 8G
  • Case: Fractal Design Define R5
  • PSU: Corsair RM Series RM750x
  • RAM: 4x Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GiB (so 32 in total).
  • Cooler: Scythe Mugen 4
  • Primary storage (M.2): Samsung 850 EVO MZ-N5E500BW
  • Secondary storage: WD Blue WD40EZRZ
  • BD Drive: ASUS BC 12D2HT

I'm going to have the store where I order it also build the system because I'm too lazy to that myself.

 

Any remarks or suggestions for improvement of this setup? I'm not sure if I'm packing enough Watts. I didn't choose for a 1070 SLI set up because I'm not convinced it's really worth it.

 

edit: bumped up the PSU from 550 to 750

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What resolution are you expecting to be using? I wouldn't get SLI unless you're doing some insane 4k gaming thing.

 

550 would most likely be fine for your system but the 750 is an excellent PSU and you'll have loads of overhead. On recommendation I also upgraded to a 750 gold recently.

 

32gb is a LOT of RAM. Are you doing any sort of processing where you'd need it?

 

Let me know how the case is. Sounds like you're not doing the actual install, but the fact that my case feels a little cramped and old now was one of the biggest gripes I had about upgrading. I thought about getting a whole new one when I bought the PSU.

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Speaking of insane 4K gaming I picked up a 1070 finally and can vouch for it being a perfectly capable 4K card. It can't max things out at 60 FPS but it can handle almost anything at about 40 to 50 FPS at near max, mostly by turning things like AA off and shadows down to high from ultra. And frankly I can barely tell the difference between high and ultra most of the time anyways.

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I currently have 2 Dell Ultrasharp U2412M. So, just 1920x1200 and no 4K. Also no immediate plans to replace these screens any time soon. And when I am, nVidia probably released the 1100 series.

 

32GiB might be a lot for games, but I'm also a software dev and professionally working on enterprise software. While 16GiB is usually enough I've often reached the max. Also, RAM is dirt cheap. Hell, even my simple Linux HTPC has 16GiB of RAM.

 

I've been looking more into this M.2 stuff. The SSD I picked uses SATA over M.2 and thus does not have any speed improvement over just using the SATA version of the same SSD. The ePCI M.2 cards are about 50% per GB more expensive, but offer speeds up to 3 times as high.

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So i just installed a new CPU fan :tup: First ever bit of hardware DIY i've done... apart from that time i used a toothpick to keep my graphics card in place back in 2002 (I remember getting a nasty electric shook LOLZ)

 

Anyway, i've had this rig for about a year now and its always been noisy as fuck, especially in the summer with the CPU fan going in to overdrive. So i've just installed a new one...

 

Thermal

 

paste

 

EVERYWHERE!

 

But its works like a dream, no more noisy fan. Yet the computer is still making too much noise for my liking and i've pin pointed it to my hard drive. Is that a thing? Can you have shitty noisy hard drives?

 

 

There's my new fan, quiet :tup: graphics card with fan, quiet :tup: power supply fan, quiet :tup: hard drive making annoying droning noise :tdown: is that normal?

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It sounds like the spin frequency is resonating with something. I don't know if that is a concern. If it bothered me, I might try to put a thin piece of packaging material between it and the frame it touches. I'm no expert though, I'm not sure if there is a risk of damage.

I know so little that I probably shouldn't have suggested anything.

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Cool thanks! Stuffing it full of packaging material right now :tup:;)

TryIng to block the sound might be the way to go though...

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Plan old disk based hard drives can be plenty noisy. Your best bet is to get an SSD if you can and make the old drive more of a bulk storage drive. That or just get a new, quieter standard drive.

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Thanks, that'll be my best bet. I'll see if I can live with it for now. If not I'll go full SSD. I don't really need 2 TB of space I'm only using like a 1/6 of it at the moment

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I've had noisy disks. Disks which are simply loud on activity (WD black), disks which are about to die (high pitched whines), and disks which weren't well suited in the casing. For the latter, there are rubber grommets, washers, rails, and other rubbery things you can use to seriously silence them.

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Mmm rubber. That'll be the cheapest easiest option. I'll look in to it. Worth a try

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5 days in a row my pc shut down on the win10 logo. Each day I removed another component and it seemed to work. Last day it only had ram, proc, power and motherboard. Douldnt even acess the boot menu. I got no components to ty thints so I'm waiting for a new motherbord in the mail.I'll post more when I grt an krybord

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Did you try booting from a Win10 install USB and selecting "Repair your Computer?" For start-up problems, it actually does a fairly good job of recovering.

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I couldn't boot anything, also at no point die I get past the wndoww logo booting it from usb or dvd

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My PC exploded while I was playing Mankind Divided. I think the motherboard got fried, but I don't trust the power supply either, so I think I will need to buy new PSU, motherboard, CPU (because of different LGA socket), and RAM (because of DDR4). At least my current CPU fan seems to be compatible with the new chipsets.

 

I'm not particularly looking forward to finding out exactly which components I should buy and where. Or the pricetag. Or trying to figure out what is the deal with my Windows 10 licence once the motherboard gets replaced.

 

Oh well, at least my computer will be significantly faster.. oh wait.. no it won't because I'm not changing my GPU or SSD.

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Turns out it was GPU and not the motherboard. Two capacitors had simply evaporated.

 

I bought GTX 1070, and a new modular PSU just in case. Some observations: (1) PCs gather a lot of dust in 5 years. (2) Modular PSUs are awesome. (3) Cabling still sucks, though. (4) Holy shit, this graphics card is a beast.

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As I mentioned in the Life thread, I bought a wazzo new monitor recently, and have had loads of issues with it. First, it had a vertical line of dead pixels or something all the way down the screen. I sent it off to get repaired, then when it came back it was displaying colours really badly. Any time it tried to blend colours, it showed a big pixelly mess, it looked like a 90s FMV. So I sent it off again, and just got it back. But it has exactly the same problem.

 

Here's what my laptop screen shows:

 

tgQApx0.jpg?1

 

and here's what my monitor shows when plugged into it via HDMI:

 

lZa5EH6.jpg?1

 

It has the same issue when plugged into my desktop with a different cable. I've tried resetting the monitor settings with no results.

 

Am I missing something here, or is my monitor just fucked? I want to make sure I'm not being an idiot before I ask for a refund.

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There are color settings in the NVidia/ATI control panel that could be messed up I guess. Do you have an old junk monitor around (or TV I guess) you could hook up and see if it does the same thing?

 

I've never seen anything quite like that.

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