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Erkki

Damn it, but computers have become really complicated

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Okay, this isn't complicated, but I'm a noob.

 

My desktop PC suddenly isn't turning on. Shut it down fine last night, today it refuses to come on. The wall socket seems fine, and the power cable seems fine (plus we never go back there so can't see how it would have been damaged), so I'm guessing I need to replace the power supply. The only weird thing is that the little green lights inside the computer (that are always on when it's plugged in at the wall even if its not on) are still on, so there's some power going somewhere.
 
Questions:
 
Do the little lights still coming on mean it's likely to be something else?
Does this guide look alright for me to follow? I've never been inside a PC before (my mate who lives in London built this one for me). I should probably be grounding myself lots as well, right?

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Regarding grounding, if you just touch the case every now and then you'll be fine. You don't have to touch anything sensitive to do this anyway.

 

That guide is fine. It's a really simple procedure and all the connectors are keyed so it's practically impossible to plug the wrong things in. The big challenge is usually cable management.

 

Also, considering that green light is on, be prepared for the possibility that the supply is ok and this is a motherboard/cpu issue (but hopefully not).

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So is the only way to tell to get a new PSU and then if that doesn't work I'll know it's the motherboard? Or do the green LEDs suggest that it's unlikely to be the PSU?

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Not that I'm aware of... Though I just took off the case and it turns out the LEDs are on the graphics card. No sign of LEDs lighting up on the motherboard, which I guess points to it being that... :(

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Have you actually unplugged the machine from the wall for a few minutes? Power supplies sometimes have internal breakers or something that reset when power is completely drained. 

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Yeah, I have. I'll give it another go to make sure, though...

 

EDIT: nope, didn't help.

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Yeah, it seems like newer mobos don't have them, but PSUs do. Sorry man, that top level unfathomable computer trouble is the worst. Can you also eliminate the most obvious/dumb stuff like swapping out the cord in case there is some short in it. 

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I've tried other stuff in the wall socket, so it's not that. Also, there is power going to the machine (enough to light up some LEDs at least!), so I dunno if it's worth buying a new cable just to double-check..?

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i have my own computer question! I've been thinking about upgrading my speakers. i was thinking 5.1 for the games, but it seems like that has fallen out of favor?

 

is there some new standard deal i'm not aware of? do i get some kind of DAC and plug my PC into a regular receiver now? PC Magazine gave top marks a stereo pair of KEF desktops, which is my brand for my main stereo, but their PC model is stereo only. 

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Do you have a multimeter?  Can you check the output of your PSU to see if the mobo is even getting power?  If it is, then I'd probably say that's the culprit and you need a new one.  If you're not sure how to do all that, here's a good guide.

 

I don't have one of those, but I guess I can buy one (they cost almost half the cost of a shop repair, but at least I'll own it when I'm done). Thanks for the link, I'll look into it. I may get a bit lost around the "To test a power supply for proper output, check the voltage at the Power_Good pin (P8-1 on AT, Baby-AT, and LPX supplies; pin eight on the ATX-type connector) for +3 V to +6 V of power" stage though...

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I don't have one of those, but I guess I can buy one (they cost almost half the cost of a shop repair, but at least I'll own it when I'm done). Thanks for the link, I'll look into it. I may get a bit lost around the "To test a power supply for proper output, check the voltage at the Power_Good pin (P8-1 on AT, Baby-AT, and LPX supplies; pin eight on the ATX-type connector) for +3 V to +6 V of power" stage though...

 

You may want to check a pinout chart for your connector type.  Something like this

 

44BD2F526ADD2E73D89F059E24BEDDCB00871E74

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**and Sam beat me to the detailed schematic answer

 

so my advice - lick your fingers and get in there! 

 

 

 

but seriously, if the lights are turning on - could it be as simple as the CMOS battery is dead?

 

another tom's hardware link that is very useful -

 

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems

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*headsplode*

 

Could be the CMOS battery for all I know, how do you check for that? Just replace?

 

Also, damn it but forums have become complicated these days. How do I actually read the whole of that post?! Never mind, the "see full content" link finally came up.

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If you're not liking the price of a multi-meter, you can try one of these doohickeys.

 

http://www.amazon.com/eForCity%C2%AE-24-pin-Power-Supply-Tester/dp/B005CTCD6S

 

I have not tried that particular one, but Dell used to send out similar $10 units that were about 90% correct in diagnosing power supply issues.

 

Here's a simple question I don't think anyone has asked. Are you sure that your power button is working and connected to the motherboard?

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I tried swapping over the power and reset button connectors at the motherboard and using the reset button to turn on, but that didn't work either. So I don't think it's the power button...

 

undermind - that thread seems mostly for people in the midst of building their PC. Mine has been working fine for 2 years and now just stopped. I shouldn't think it's stuff like things not being connected properly etc (could be wrong, of course, being a noob)...

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Denouement:

 

The amazingly wonderful Synnah has experience building PCs, and also happened to have a spare PSU. He came round and plugged it in for me and the PC immediately worked fine again! So I now need to contact Corsair and hope I can RMA my broken PSU. Such a relief it wasn't the motherboard, that would have been a major pain in the arse for various reasons.

 

Thanks Synnah, and thanks everyone else for the advice :)

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I'm glad you found your issue, but I still recommend getting that multimeter if you can.  Could be handy in the future.

 

Speaking of which, I need to find mine...

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56 days after opening a case, Logitech has finally agreed to ship me out a new mouse.  I ultimately ended up sending them three different pieces of proof that I had purchased it from Newegg.  The final one was a new invoice generated by Newegg last week.  To compare customer service, I contacted Newegg about needing an invoice for a warranty, and less than 8 hours later I had it. 

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Thanks Synnah, and thanks everyone else for the advice :)

 

:tup:  :)  

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